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DO NOT waste lure by adding it into timbers which do not contain live termites. The colony is killed only if workers take enough of the bait back to the nest. And they will only take it whenever they can harvest it, undisturbed, from inside the damaged timber you've found. .
See the uneven surface of the window frame. Termites had eaten it out, in some areas leaving only the paint.
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Make an opening into the termites using a pointed knife or fine screwdriver. The hole should be no bigger than about 5mm diameter to begin with. (It should be enlarged only when it's time to add the cache of bait). You can pry into the surface of the wood in which it feels spongy, thin or hollow.
It's only as a last resort you should attempt to open a tunnel on a wood or foundation surface. .
Once you've broken through into where it's hollow, wait for a minute or so. If termites are there, the soldiers usually come to safeguard the opening while workers repair it. You may see their antennae and their heads blocking the hole. If no live pollutants appear, leave the hole open and return later or check next day.
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This shows the way planters will come out from the infested timber into a foil coated mass of bait taped into the surface. Alternatively, if the surface is flat, the feeder might be repaired over the pit and also the termites will enter it to crop the lure.
If the wood has a level surface, make the hole away from corners so that you can line it up with the hole in the base of the feeder. If the access hole into the termites is on a round pole or another situation where you cannot fix the feeder to it, you can make a pouch of aluminium foil and duct tape to hold the bait in place.
If you are using the foil method, carefully pull the border of the sticky tape to inspect and to replenish the bait. If you're using the feeder method, it is less disturbing if you can add more lure to the original feeder.
The termites you will see as dark brown nests high up in a tree are rarely pests of significance. But the main subterranean termites that do this 99% of the $damage we mentioned earlier, will often nest inside the central pipe or even hollowed out center of a tree. Mastos, the giant northern termite, dont always wait for the decay of the pipe.
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(Watch the special box on Mastos).
If at colonising flight time a couple find their way into Web Site a hollow tree through maybe a dead/broken-off branch or in via a scar from flame in the base, they could not possibly have better conditions. Requires plenty to eat, moisture and protection. A 50 metre traveling to your residence would not be out of the question. .
If you've got a large eucalypt, peppercorn or a mature fruit tree nearby, you ought to check it. Use an 15-20mm auger bit long enough to drill into the centre of the trunk at approximately shoulder height. Drill at a slight downward angle and when you feel less resistance you could try these out it'll be because you have reached the pipe.
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If not, you could slip in a long thin grass foliage into the drill hole, then leave it there for a minute and withdraw it slowly. Termites might be found holding on, attacking it. If no live termites are found, return in half an hour or even next morning; when there is termite lifetime inside, they will be repairing or have mended the opening using their mud mixture. .
In this situation you dont need to see live termites; its just more satisfying to know you have murdered a colony when you choose the next steps
Re-open the drill hole if it has been repairedUsing a funnel, plastic tubing and watering can/bucket, pour at least 20-30 litres of a chlorpyrifos or a bifenthrin solution down into the shrub. These insecticidal concentrations can be bought by a local hardware store. They could be known by various brand names but the active ingredients are on the front panel of the label.